Fall 2026 NEWSLETTER

President’s Message

Hello everyone!

This is my favorite time of year, and there is lots of work to do. While I don't know if El Niño affects all of us, the extreme weather conditions we will face here in the West will likely be mirrored for everyone in the future—and this newsletter has lots of information about how to help the trees in our care thrive in the weather extremes to come.

We have had several excellent talks recently, and more are in the works, so stay tuned! And save the date for our next Annual Meeting on Sunday, January 31st! As ever, please reach out with any thoughts or suggestions. Happy Fall!

Lara Miranda

APA Certified Aesthetic Pruner® #65
President, Aesthetic Pruners Association

apapresident@aestheticprunersassociation.org
510.658.3438

Feature Article

Preparing for a Super El Niño

Peter Quintanilla, CAP #25

We’ve all gotten the warning: a Super El Niño is on its way, if it’s not already here. As caretakers we should be looking out for ways to prevent or reduce damage to the plants and trees in our care. Although extreme weather events are not new, it’s a good time for some reminders. Depending on where we live, we can expect heavy rains, strong winds and high or low temperatures.

Heavy Rain and Flooding

The real danger of too much water in the soil is too little oxygen. Roots need air to breathe, and saturated soil drives it out. Within a few days, roots begin to suffocate and die. Ironically, a flooded plant often wilts as if it were thirsty because damaged roots can no longer take up water.

Prolonged saturated soil conditions also invite root rot fungi. Also, a waterlogged root zone can loosen a plant's anchorage, which can make it more likely to topple over if strong winds follow heavy rain.

How to prepare for flooding:

• In slow draining soils, dig shallow trenches to steer water away from the bases of plants. Improve drainage now by working compost into heavy clay beds.

• Clear the paths for water. Clean gutters, downspouts and drains, and point runoff away from planting areas.

• Mulch, but not too deeply. Two to three inches of mulch protects soil from erosion and splashing. Keep it pulled back from stems and trunks. Mulch may need to be pulled away if you’re trying to dry out the soil.

• Inspect planting containers for good drainage. Make sure drainage holes are clear.

Temperature Extremes

During heat waves, plants lose water faster than roots can replace it. Leaves wilt, edges scorch brown, and flowers and young fruit may drop. Thin-barked trees like maples can suffer sunscald on exposed branches and trunks.

Cold brings a different set of problems. Hard freezes can kill roots, buds, and tissue in plants that aren't hardy for your area. Late spring frosts are especially bad, damaging tender new growth and blossoms overnight. 

Warm winters can also inhibit fruit and deciduous trees from breaking dormancy and can reduce leafing, flowering and fruiting.

How to prepare for heat:

• Water deeply before the heat arrives. A thorough soaking a day or two ahead is better than frequent shallow watering.

• Water early in the morning so plants go into the hottest hours fully hydrated.

• Provide temporary shade. Shade cloth on stakes helps new plantings and seedlings.

• Apply mulch to keep roots cool and slow evaporation from the soil.

• Hold off on pruning and fertilizing until temperatures ease, since these can add stress.

How to prepare for cold:

• Water before a freeze. Moist soil holds heat better than dry soil.

• Cover tender plants with frost cloth draped to the ground to trap soil warmth. Remove covers in the morning.

• Bring small and sensitive container plants indoors or group them against a warm and sheltered wall or overhang.

• Stop fertilizing in late summer so plants aren't pushing tender growth when cold weather arrives.

Strong Winds

Wind causes the most visible damage: snapped branches, split trunks and uprooted trees. Internal decay, shallow roots or weak, narrow branch attachments are most at risk. Wind also dries foliage quickly, leaving leaves with brown and scorched edges. Near the coast, wind-borne salt spray can damage foliage on the windward side.

Pruning

Trees that have been heavily pruned in the past may have unnaturally dense canopies. These may need to be thinned. Trees with natural growth habits will use their natural mass damping to reduce wind forces. A branch sticking out past the crown doesn’t get the sheltering effect of the rest of the canopy, it catches the wind at full speed. A reduction cut to a side branch is the best way to reduce its length.

How to prepare for strong winds:

• Inspect large trees. Look for cracks, cavities, mushrooms at the base, or a new lean. If needed, a consulting arborist can provide a tree risk assessment.

• Stake young trees loosely. Allow some movement, which builds a stronger trunk, and remove stakes after the roots have anchored the tree.

• Secure vines, climbers, and top-heavy plants.

Reference material:

Costello, L.R., E.J. Perry, N.P. Matheny, J.M. Henry, and P.M. Geisel. 2003. Abiotic Disorders of Landscape Plants: A Diagnostic Guide. University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources Publication 3420. Oakland, CA. 242 p.

Peter Quintanilla is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist and an APA Certified Aesthetic Pruner®. He teaches arboriculture and landscape pruning at Cabrillo College and Monterey Peninsula College.

Feature Article

Topiary—Every Cut Tells a Story

Kunyu (George) Zhang, APA Associate Member

A clipped hedge can become a wall; a trained plant, a column or sculpture. For centuries, gardeners have used plants as architecture. Roman writer Pliny the Younger described gardens shaped with clipped boxwood. In the 17th century, designers such as André Le Nôtre used hedges to define vast geometric layouts. Later, English landscape gardeners such as Capability Brown favored rolling lawns, irregular tree groups and sweeping views.

These changing styles raise an enduring question: Does pruning impose a design on a plant, or reveal and develop its form?

In 2025, UK-based topiary artist Darren Lerigo explored plants as “green architecture” in an Aesthetic Pruners Association Tree Talk. Topiary and niwaki—the Japanese art of training and pruning garden trees—offer different approaches to that architecture.

As a shorthand: topiary shapes the surface; niwaki develops the structure.

Topiary often relies on shearing foliage and young shoots to create defined geometric or representational forms. Niwaki pruning generally works more selectively through twigs and branches to develop structural lines, negative space, foliage pads and character. The distinction is useful, though not absolute: topiary can involve structural training, and niwaki can involve shearing. Both shape how a plant is experienced in the garden.

During an APGA tour of the Japanese Tea House, Steven Pitsenbarger discussed developing lines and curves in garden trees that had been maintained as pompon-like clouds. He suggested that earlier gardeners may have favored topiary-style forms where a more structural approach was intended.

With a suitable plant and enough time, an established pompon topiary can sometimes be gradually reworked into a more open, structural form. The possibilities depend on the species, existing branch architecture, foliage distribution, and capacity to produce new growth. Such a transformation requires careful observation and ongoing pruning, not a one-time intervention.

Unlike stone or masonry, living architecture continues to grow and respond to its environment. Every pruning decision influences not only the plant’s present appearance but also its future development.

For gardeners interested in experimenting, nursery-grown topiary offers a starting point. Monrovia produces trained ornamental forms, while the Oregon Association of Nurseries’ Nursery Guide⁠ helps locate growers and plant material. Search terms such as “spiral,” “pompon,” and “cloud-pruned” can help identify different forms. When selecting a plant, consider not only its current appearance but also its species, branching structure, growing conditions and long-term maintenance requirements.

At Filoli, topiary artist Michael Gibson examined a juniper topiary and, as I recall, observed that “every cut tells a story.”

Aesthetic pruning, whether topiary or niwaki, is more than the removal of foliage. It is a continuing conversation between the gardener’s intentions and the plant’s biological possibilities.

Successful pruning is measured not by how much living tissue is removed, but by the form, structure and future growth left behind.

What story do your cuts tell?

Kunyu Zhang is an ISA Certified Arborist, an EPA Qualified Water Efficient Landscaper, and a Certified California Native Plant Landscaper by the California Native Plant Society and Theodore Payne Foundation.

APA Upcoming Events

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APA Annual Membership Meeting
*Save the date*

Join us for our Annual Membership Meeting, where we review and discuss the activities of the organization, elect board members, and get to know one another.

Sunday, January 31, 2027
10:00 am – 12:30 pm (PST)
On Zoom

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CAP Mentoring

Are you interested in becoming an APA Certified Aesthetic Pruner®?
with CAPs Eric King and Dina Blackwell

Monday, February 1, 2027

6:00 pm – 7:30 pm (PST)
On Zoom

REGISTER

Other Events

East Bay Bonsai Society

Annual Show

The East Bay Bonsai Society sponsors a two-day show each November featuring an impressive exhibit of quality bonsai. The show also includes a demonstration by a notable bonsai artist, a benefit drawing, and a sale of bonsai and related materials.

November 14 – 15, 2026
Saturday, 10:00 am – 5:00 pm; Sunday, 11:00 am – 4:00 pm (PST)

Lakeside Garden Center
666 Bellevue Ave. 
Oakland, CA

Free 

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Massachusetts Horticultural Society

Dormant Pruning Workshop

With leaves gone and plant structure fully visible, this is a critical time for addressing long-term structural issues, reducing risk of winter damage, and performing pruning tasks that should not be done during active growth. Plants may include ornamental trees and late-flowering shrubs. Participants will learn why plants do not respond to pruning during dormancy—and why that lack of response is essential for certain types of corrective and preventative work. 

Saturday, November 14, 2026

10:00 am – 11:30 am, or 12:00 pm – 1:30 pm (EST)

The Garden at Elm Bank

$38 MHS Members
$50 Non-members

Register Here 

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San Francisco Botanical Garden

Bug Curious: Amateur Entomology in the Garden

Join entomology graduate student, researcher, and science communicator Sophia Di Piazza for a guided exploration of the fascinating insects that call the Gardens of Golden Gate Park home. Together, we’ll slow down and take a closer look at the pollinators, beetles, true bugs, and other tiny creatures living among the garden’s plants while learning about the important relationships between insects and the ecosystems they support. 

Saturday, November 14, 2026

8:30 am – 10:00 am (PST)

SF Botanical Garden
San Francisco, CA

Free

RSVP Here 

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Maple Leaf Bonsai

Deciduous Pruning Workshop

Hands-on class designed to teach the essential pruning techniques that promote fine ramification, improve branch structure, and set your trees up for healthy spring growth. Participants are encouraged to bring in one deciduous bonsai to prune during the workshop. 

Saturday, November 14, 2026

11:00 am – 12:00 pm (EST)

Maple Leaf Bonsai
Pomona, NY

Register Here 

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New England Botanic Garden

The Growth of Trees: A Journey Through Time

Join Michael Wojtech, author of A Field Guide to Trees of the Northeast, and discover how trees grow, reproduce, and interact with their environment across days, weeks, seasons, and years and over varying scales—from the intricate details of buds, flowers, leaves, and bark that we use for species identification to the collaborative roles of trees in ecosystems. Learn more about the function and experience the beauty of characteristics such as overwintering buds, lobed or toothed leaves, flowers by the thousands, and seeds that fly on the wind. 

Please come dressed to walk around the gardens, potentially on the forest trails.

Sunday, November 15, 2026

10:00 am – 1:00 pm (EST)

New England Botanic Garden at Tower Hill
Boyleston, MA

$55 NEBG Members
$66 Non-members

Register Here 

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Portland Japanese Garden

Garden+ Lecture - Niwa Akari II: Landscape Lighting in Japanese Gardens

Explore how an illuminated Japanese garden can communicate and inspire global audiences! 

Continuing its exploration of landscape illumination following Tim Ryan’s 2025 talk, the Japanese Garden Training Center’s 2026 Garden + Lecture is delighted to present Satoshi Uchihara, a world-renowned lighting expert from Japan. Uchihara will further explore the Japanese concept of akari (light). He will examine the history, spirituality, and unique quality of modern Japanese lighting through real-world case studies. This lecture will also include a chat with Tyler Nishitani, a local architect who helped shape Portland Japanese Garden’s award-winning 2017 expansion. 

Thursday, November 19, 2026
5:00 pm – 6:30 pm (PST)

Portland Japanese Garden
Jordan Schnitzer Japanese Arts Learning Center
Portland, OR

$40

Register Here 

Becoming a CAP

We hear from a Certified Aesthetic Pruner about why they decided to become a CAP!

Kaori Moro, CAP #72

My background in art has shaped the way I look at trees. I am drawn to their forms, the spaces between their branches, and the subtle balance that makes each tree unique. Before I make a cut, I try to hear what the tree is already telling me through its structure, its past wounds, and the way it has reached toward light. Sometimes removing a single branch lets something emerge that had been there all along, unnoticed.

Growing up in Japan, I developed a sense that working with nature begins with paying close attention to it. Aesthetic pruning brought this sensibility together with my interest in art in a way I had not anticipated. Yet I came to understand that a good eye is only the beginning. To listen well, I needed to understand how trees grow, how they respond to pruning, and how to work with their natural structure over time. Preparing for the CAP certification pushed me to look critically at my own work and articulate the reasons behind each decision. I was especially fortunate to learn from pruners who generously shared their knowledge and approached their work with great care. 

Becoming a CAP was an important step in my practice, but what I value most is the learning that continues beyond certification. Every tree presents different possibilities and challenges. Sometimes I arrive with a clear idea of what I want to accomplish only to find, after closer observation, that the tree suggests another direction. That process of looking, listening, and adjusting is what I find most rewarding. Being part of the APA has connected me with people who take this work seriously and continue to challenge my way of seeing trees. I hope to keep refining my eye and my judgment through that exchange, one tree at a time.

APA Members-only Videos

Members can access video links to past APA Talks!

Links to Tree Talks, APA Annual Meeting talks, and other archived presentations are available on the APA Members page of the website. 
You must be logged in to your account to see the Members page.

NEW Video Available:
APA Tree Talk: Diagnosing Tree Pests and Diseases
with John Leffingwell, October 2026

Pruning Wisdom from Members

"What are your tips for pruning in an El Niño year?"

To begin with, I want to make it clear that I never work in rain or wet conditions if at all possible. It’s dangerous, it’s miserable, and the compaction on the root zone is bad for the tree. Also, if pruning fruit trees, there is a belief among orchardists that disease might be spread more easily in rain. 

That said, the way I deal with rainy weather is twofold:

First, I use three different weather apps that together give me highly localized weather predictions, hour by hour, by zip code. I check them constantly for any changes. I always watch the radar maps to assess direction and severity of the rain fronts.

Second, I stay flexible. I don’t make any solid plans far in advance. I keep a “floating” schedule penciled in my calendar but I only let the client know I’m coming a few days in advance. That way I don’t have to scramble to reschedule more than one or two clients if rain precludes acertain day or two. Often the rain will only happen in the morning or afternoon and I can get part or all of a job done before or after. If after a shower, I will go around shaking the trees I’ll be pruning. Trees are designed to shed rain efficiently and only need a few good shakes and 20 minutes or so to dry out enough to work in.

Lastly, there may come a season in which it becomes impossible to get to all the trees in your annual schedule. In those rare cases I have simply explained the concerns to the client, always emphasizing the health of the tree(s), and always with a plan to resume the schedule when conditions are right. Of course, if the client insists, I do whatever I can to satisfy their concerns, but with long-term clients, that is rarely an issue.

Working in the rain can be tough, but sometimes necessary. My initial advice is to try to leave enough extra days in your calendar during the rainy season so you can reschedule. But sometimes the weather just doesn’t allow a dry day to work.

There are horticultural considerations for pruning on rainy days: evidence of disease or plant stress from overwatering are two things that can appear in above-average precipitation periods.

Checking leaves, branches, and root zones for disease before starting any work is important. If any signs of disease are present, consider the work you’re planning and if executing it might potentially spread the disease. Disinfecting your tools between cuts, if the work is necessary, is imperative. If the work can wait, it’s better to reschedule for a dry day, still upholding good sanitation practices. It’s easier to control your potential for contamination on a dry day.

Saturation of soils can impact tree roots’ ability to carry out respiration. This could be compounded if you are stepping into the root zone and compacting the soils, reducing pore space. Take care to tread minimally under the tree canopy, especially if you’re working in gardens with high clay content.

Most importantly, personal safety while working in the rain is necessary to be mindful of. This might sound obvious, but be intentional with every step you take, every cut you make, and every trimming you discard.

Climbing wet ladders can be dangerous. The treads definitely become more slippery. Always maintain three points of contact with the ladder and double check that you’re on the ground before walking away. Seriously. That last step can become more difficult for your feet to translate with soggy, wet boots.

Saws can easily jump or slip sideways on wet bark, so watch your hands and be mindful of where the non-operating arm is through the entirety of the cut. Pruners and scissors can become slippery, so be careful of what’s below you in case they don’t make it back into the holsters as accurately as they typically would.

Trimmings become a giant pain to clean up in wet conditions. Needles can stick to everything and cake up in lower tiers of the canopy quickly. Use of tarps to cover the ground will improve the cleanup process significantly. Raking wet trimmings can be tedious and using a blower can be almost useless. Working and cleaning from top to bottom in the tree becomes very relevant for efficiency on wet days. Wet waste can also get quite slippery, so move around with care.

Lastly, I’d advise you to have at least one complete change of clothes on hand. To be able to swap gloves and boots partway through the day can really help keep your morale from getting stuck in the mud!

El Niño 2026-27 for the Pacific Northwest is predicted to be warm and dry. Wait, what??? 

October has already been on the dry side and I suppose it has worked out well for me here in Portland, Oregon. I am often scrambling to get a lot of pruning done before the rain makes my work week shrink to a bare minimum for about 4 months. I remain flexible for those months so I can jump on any dry (or most likely drizzle) opportunities. Sounds like I will have a lot more days to prune this winter. 

But if you are in an area that expects a lot of rain, here are some of the ways I accommodate it in an above average Northwest winter. 

If the weather app predicts 1/4” or less, I will schedule a pruning day. Usually that means a constant drizzle or short bursts of rain in the morning or afternoon. Anything over that is not a pruning day unless rain is predicted in the afternoon or evening. Then I can fit in a short morning of pruning work. 

Encourage your clients to use a thin layer of arborist chips or some kind of mulch to reduce soil compaction.

Warn your clients to clean out their gutters. Any foundation plantings are at risk because of gutter overflow. The damage may not appear until summer. Wisteria and junipers are a common casualty. 

I use waterproof gloves and if not, bring extra pairs of gloves so I can trade them for a dry pair if the rain lets up or just to have dry hands for 5 minutes. 

Bring a few extra towels to dry your hands and tools before driving home.

I put a small washcloth in my phone pocket so I can dry my hands if I need to answer my phone or wipe raindrops off my safety glasses. 

A waterproof coat is a must; water-resistant is not enough. Bring a dry coat to change into when you are done. A dry ride home makes all the difference. 

It took me quite a few years to realize that it was not easy to reschedule if I needed to cancel for rain (because it could rain solid for the next 3 weeks!)  Now I wait to cancel until an hour before I leave to make sure the weather forecast is right. Portland weather is notoriously difficult to pin down.

Once you get used to it, it’s not so bad to work in a drizzle. Keep some warm tea in your truck, embrace the challenge and if it’s just too much, trust the trees will be there when the rain stops. 

Pruners in the Pacific Northwest are no strangers to wet weather.  After 3 months of summer drought we are ready for the plants to get their due soaking, but admittedly I am not always ready to don the rain gear and waterproof gloves when the time comes.

After 5 years of living in Portland and 4 of those spent doing a lot of winter season pruning, I have managed to dial in the gear and workflow routine to stay as dry as possible:

• Waterproof gloves (including a pair of lined ones for extra warmth) can still get sweaty/wet and stinky quickly, so I am purchasing more pairs to switch between, and I often dry them on a…

• Boot dryer, from Dr. Prepare (featuring forced air, timers, and auto-off)

• Waterproof rain hat and at least one separate set of rain gear (pants and jacket) that I only use during the actual work. I wear a separate rain jacket between sites that has a chance to dry off a bit in the truck. I do have a second set of work rain gear to wear after days when the first gets so soaked and it's too cold in my garage to dry fully.

• I also use a pair of Mucks waterproof boots (that slip on and zip up) only on the work site and keep them on a small boot tray in my truck bed; it’s nice to have a separate, dry pair of boots to change into after work.

• When it’s pouring out and I don’t have time to fully clean my tools immediately, I make sure to at least wipe them all down with a dry rag to prevent rust.

• I use a double or multi-tarp setup to manage debris and keep everything less messy and more efficient. As I’m pruning, I try to pile everything neatly on tarps, preferably under a bigger tree’s canopy, covering the debris so they don’t gather extra weight from the rain. Whenever I have to haul I will throw down a tarp in my truck bed which I can easily pull out with all of the debris on it when it’s time to dump.

Something I am considering purchasing soon is a 10’x10’ pop-up canopy tent to place over my work area because pruning Laceleaf maples in the rain is no bueno.

When scheduling jobs during the rainy season, it’s helpful to consider the extra time needed to navigate wet work sites, as well as mental and physical capacity during especially heavy rain. I try to avoid any detailed pruning jobs when I know being wet and cold might make me too grumpy to patiently consider all aesthetic pruning principles!

When you live in the Northeast, working outside in inclement weather is par for the course. Whether summer or winter, working in the rain is the most challenging.

There is no big secret to working in wet weather; essentially, you need to be prepared. Wear high-quality gear, slow down, and use common sense. Most importantly, stop working when it gets unsafe. When it is safe to work, high-quality outer gear can make all the difference. Waterproof jackets and pants more meant for mountain climbing can keep you dry while staying breathable. Spending hundreds of dollars on gear that will most definitely get destroyed after a season of pruning and garden work is a hard pill to swallow, but I still think of it as a great investment. A breathable shell will allow you to work in wet weather that would otherwise keep you inside. Don’t waste money on cheap outerwear: it will trap body heat and you’ll end up wetter from sweat than from rain, even in the cold. That’s neither healthy nor comfortable. Being comfortable will also keep you safer, in that you’re less likely to rush to get out of the rain. Like good tools, investing in high-quality outerwear makes the work a little easier and a lot safer.

APA News

Open APA Board Positions

In January 2027, we will hold elections for four open Executive Board positions:

President 
Vice President
Member at Large #1
Member at Large #3

The election results will be announced at the APA Annual Membership Meeting on January 31, 2027. New terms for board positions start on March 1, 2027.

Involve yourself in the APA!

Board members have their fingers on the pulse of the organization. This is your chance to make professional connections and contribute your thoughts and ideas to your organization!

Board meetings are held monthly on the 2nd Thursday on Zoom, which means that you can participate from wherever you live. If you would like to consider one of these positions, the board welcomes you to join a board meeting and see the board in action.

President (must be a CAP member)

Duties of the APA President - 2 year term:
• Provide executive leadership in the planning process and overall leadership of the APA
• Preside at all monthly Executive Board meetings and the Annual Membership Meeting in January
• Act as spokesperson for the APA
• Nominate Standing Committee and Subcommittee Chairpersons who shall be approved by the Executive Board
• Create other special ad hoc subcommittees as needed
• Fill board vacancies as needed with approval of the Executive Board

Vice President (must be a CAP member)

Duties of the APA Vice President - 2 year term:
• Assume the responsibilities of the President in the absence of the President
• Chair the Annual Membership Meeting in January and such committees or events as needed
• Lead or participate in APA committees as needed

Members at Large #1 & #3 (must be either a CAP or Associate member)

Duties of the APA Member at Large - 2 year term:
• Initiate or assist with Executive Board activities as needed
• Lead or participate in APA committees as needed

Welcome New APA Members

Associate Members

Andrew Khiev (CA)
Gerardo (CA)

Affiliate Members

Chris Curry (CA)
Lisa Lund (WA)
Judy Paton (CA)

Student Members

Melinda Day (CA)
Julia Mcevoy (CA)
Paula Patty (CA)

Committee Chair Reports

CRAFT STANDARDS COMMITTEE
Co-chairs: Allison Levin, CAP #34 and Emily Fronckowiak, CAP #57

Committee members: Dina Blackwell, Grant Foerster, Josias Harder, Maryann Lewis, Judy Thomas, and Randall Lee

Major Events happening since the summer report:
• The CSC has a new member, Josias Harder, CAP #71. Welcome Josias!
• We sent out a letter requesting volunteers to add to the pool of Test Administrators. Thanks to the folks who did respond—we need more of you!
• Sincere thanks to the Test Administrators who are currently running certification tests: Jeff Becerra, Barb Eaton, Grant Foerster, Emily Fronckowiak, Josias Harder, Randall Lee, Maryann Lewis, Allison Levin, Joseph Nontanovan.
• The CSC continues to work on further refinement of test materials.
• We reviewed guidelines for retesting a single section of the certification process, and agreed on a case-by-case approach for scheduling these (up to six months from the original test date).
• The “Why I’m a CAP” promotion continues to inspire more pruners to become certified by sharing testimonials from CAPs in the APA Newsletter. If you would like to share your story, please contact the Craft Standards Committee.

The APA Certified Aesthetic Pruner® (CAP) designation recognizes those professional pruners who demonstrate a high level of proficiency when applying the art and science of aesthetic pruning. For this reason, the Craft Standards Committee seeks members whose knowledge and experience will maintain the well-earned reputation of the CAP designation.

Do you see events and topics you would like to be a part of? We welcome input and participation from interested members! Contact us at craftstandards@aestheticprunersassociation.org

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EDUCATION COMMITTEE
Chair: Carolyn Cooley, CAP #15

Committee members: Evelyn Borchert, Cathy Crystal, Greg Kitajima, Allison Levin, Lara Miranda, Peter Quintanilla, Matthew Taylor, Judy Thomas

We’ve had some great recent talks, including a Tree Talk from arborist John Leffingwell in which he outlined very practical steps for recognizing and diagnosing biotic and abiotic disorders, and an inspiring discussion on November 8 with a panel of artist pruners—Michael Alliger, Diana Chamberlain and Eric King—that included an outstanding slideshow of images illustrating art concepts for aesthetic pruners. We plan to revisit the topic of art in relation to pruning in future Tree Talks. If you missed either of these talks, look for the recordings (free to view for members) on our website. We’re working to get as many of our Tree Talks as possible approved for CEUs from the ISA. Avram Dalton will be speaking on January 10 on the topic “Shokunin-dō: The Language, Culture, and Spirituality of the Japanese Craftsperson.”

Our New Professionals series has evolved so that we are alternating between our foundational topics, such as building your business, tools and ergonomics, and one-off events, like our recent panel discussion, “Old Pro/New Place,” about moving to a new place or doing pruning work in more than one place. Arborist and accountant Edward Morrow will be speaking about Taxes, Financial Tools and Legal Entities on December 13, and then in the winter and spring, watch for a talk on working with other people (collaborating, working for others, hiring or subcontracting other pruners) and another on “war stories.”

After our next Coffee Talk on November 15, Coffee Talks will move to happening twice a year instead of quarterly, but we’ll also start keeping the Zoom session open after Tree Talks so folks can stay on and chat informally.

In November, we’re welcoming Kat Gritt to the committee, and in January, the intrepid Peter Quintanilla will take over chairing the committee. We welcome more members to help with planning the educational events that are such a valuable part of what the APA offers. 

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FINANCE COMMITTEE
Chair: Barbara Eaton, CAP #60

Committee members: Dina Blackwell, Nina Rizzo, Mark Mendell, Jeff Becerra, Helga Mahlmann (volunteer accountant), Audrey Childs (bookkeeper)

In the third quarter of 2026, our main income was from membership dues, which totaled $1,935. Other income included a $396 donation to the Sachiko Umehara Scholarship Fund, $300 in registration fees for John Leffingwell’s October Tree Talk on Diagnosing Tree Pests and Diseases, and $285 in CAP application fees. Our CD account earned a little over $365 in interest for the quarter. Our main third quarter expenses included a legal fee of $1,000 plus $575 in government fees to renew the APA Certified Aesthetic Pruner® trademark, about $600 in bookkeeping fees, almost $300 for our Solano Stroll booth, a little over $200 in printing costs for mounted prints to hang in the Solano Stroll booth, $177 in website related expenses, and about $120 in software subscriptions. 

Anyone interested in joining the Finance Committee is welcome to email Barb at apatreasurer@aestheticprunersassociation.org.

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MEMBERSHIP COMMITTEE
Chair: Alex Senauke 

Committee members: Lara Miranda, Dina Blackwell, Allison Levin, Joseph Nontanovan

The Membership Committee's Ambassador Program began in September. This pilot program allows new APA members to be paired with CAPs for personalized onboarding and orientation.

Our new members this quarter largely hail from the West Coast. Merritt College continues to be cited by new members as the primary way that folks are made aware of the APA, though Master Gardener programs and Tree Talks were also mentioned. If you have joined the APA in the past two years and are interested in getting involved with this program, please reach out to: alexsenauke@gmail.com

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NEWSLETTER COMMITTEE
Chair: Dina Blackwell, CAP #53 

Committee members: Barbara Eaton, Mariah Guarnaccia

We meet virtually to put together content for our quarterly publication. If you have any ideas for stories, or would like to write one yourself, please contact Dina at dinasgardens@gmail.com.

The Newsletter Committee would love to get photos from members for the opening image. It could be a seasonal photo that represents the time of year for that newsletter, or just a photo of a nice tree, someone pruning, or a set of before and after pruning shots.  

Also, we have a column called “Pruning Wisdom,” where 2 to 4 pruners answer a question from members. We would love to hear any questions that you would like answered. All of the past newsletters can be viewed on the APA website under the “Resources” tab, APA Newsletter.

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SACHIKO UMEHARA SCHOLARSHIP COMMITTEE
Chair: Randall Lee, CAP #3

Committee members: Melissa Hyams, Dina Blackwell

The APA’s Sachiko Umehara Scholarship was established in 2020, and we have awarded $3,000 since its inception. The next scholarship of $500 will be awarded in May 2027—please spread the word. If you are a landscape horticulture student at Merritt College in Oakland, California, or know of one, AND are interested in becoming an aesthetic pruner, this scholarship can help with future educational expenses. The application period for the spring 2027 scholarship started on October 1, 2026 and will close on March 1, 2027. The requirements are that you must be enrolled at Merritt College and be taking one or more landscape horticulture classes.

Please apply through the Peralta Colleges Foundation website. You do not apply directly for this scholarship since the Peralta Colleges Foundation matches your application with all of the scholarships you qualify for. If you would like to find out more information about the Scholarship and/or donate to the fund, please visit the Scholarships page on the APA website.

If you have any questions, I can be contacted at randallalee@yahoo.com

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PROMOTIONS COMMITTEE
Chair: Jeff Becerra

Committee members: Dina Blackwell, Shirley Brewin, Jane Chua-Couzens, Barbara Eaton, Kristen Vetterlein

APA volunteers had a successful day engaging with the crowds at the Solano Stroll in Albany/Berkeley, CA, on September 13. Volunteers helped people understand what the APA does and the benefits of hiring a pro. 

A big thank you to this year’s volunteers: Jeff Becerra, Dina Blackwell, Jane Chua-Couzens, Kat Gritt, Randall Lee, Allison Levin, Matthew Taylor, and Kristin Vetterlein.

On October 25, our picnic was held at sunny Crown Beach in Alameda, CA. Members had fun catching up with friends old and new. Stay tuned for more events in 2027!